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| Allalinhorn, Hohlaubgrat |  |
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The northeast Ridge of the Allalinhorn, the Hohlaubgrat, is a very fine climb and one that we always enjoy. The route has some very fine situations, poised on the crest of a snow ridge, an interesting mixed crux section and invariably a fine sunrise. The starting point for this route is the Britannia hut, a very nice, large and newly remodeled hut easily accessed from the Saas Fee lift complex. From the hut we descend a bit to the Hohlaub Glacier. As we climb the glacier, the sun comes up over the Weissmies and Lagginhorn to the east. we gain the crest of the ridge at perhaps half height, and this is followed to the crux rock step, just shy of the summit. Here, 2 or 3 short pitches of mixed ground surmount this obstacle. The holds are big, but it is invariably climbed in crampons and often the rock is icy or has a covering of new snow. Just above the step easier climbing leads to the Allalinhorn's summit. This is one of those routes that is just the right difficulty for intermediate mountaineers. Steep and technical enough to be a challenge, but not so severe as to make it dangerous or frustrating. It is great training, as well, especially for foot work in crampons, and also for altitude as the summit is over 4000 meters high and the crux section nearly this high as well.
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| Allalinhorn from the northeast | |
Difficulty There are both technical and aerobic challenges to the Hohlaubgrat. The mixed climbing of the rock step requires care and precision, especially so given its high altitude. The approach, both to the hut and to the base of the route are not long. With an early alpine start we are usually on the summit by mid-morning Prerequisites This is a route for experienced and skilled climbers. competence with french technique cramponing on 40 degree ice and snow is required, as is ability to climb mid-5th class rock in big boots, even in crampons. Combinations The Hohlaubgrat combines very well with a traverse of the Feechopf and the Alphubel, though this is a big day. Alternatively, a good 3-day outing is to climb the Rimpfischhorn from the Fluealp hut, crossing over to the Britannia hut, then tackle the Hohlaubgrat on your third day. This is a great 3-day combo that includes two good routes on two major 4000 meter summits. |
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| Sunrise on the Hohlaub Glacier | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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