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| Pollux |  |
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High above Zermatt, along the Swiss-Italian border, is a very high frontier ridge, home of many 4000 meter summits. Two of the these peaks, the Twins of Castor and Pollux are readily accessible as day climbs from Zermatt. Where Castor is longer and all snow and ice, Pollux is mixed with fun rock climbing as you approach the summit. To reach the peak, we start with a ride up the Klein Matterhorn lift, gaining an easy 7200 vertical feet. From here we cross the Breithorn Plateau, traverse the south, Italian, side of the Breithorn to the foot of the South Ridge of Pollux. The climb starts on easy rock which gets progressively steeper as we ascend. The last 100 feet or so have been equipped with fixed chains to make otherwise extremely difficult climbing more democratic. Above, a very fine snow arete leads to the summit. This is a good climb for a day's outing. It is varied, and scenic, and the views from the summit are spectacular. Difficulty Pollux is not considered a difficult route though it has its challenges. These can be divided into three types; The aerobic challenge of the approach and return, and climbing at altitude, the challenge of the glacier, which varies from season to season, and last the challenge presented by the steep rock at the top. |
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| Starting out with the fixed chains | |
Prerequisites The technical difficulty is not great, though climbers need to do a bit of strenuous arm-work on the fixed chains. The main prerequisite is good overall fitness, especially if you have not yet had a chance to become well acclimated to the high elevations. Combinations The Guide d'Ayas hut is not far from Pollux, and it is possible to spend the night there and the following day climb either Castor and other summits east, or return to Zermatt via the Breithorn Half Traverse, also described in our web site. |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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