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| Woolly Wanderings |
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Do you love to putter around with yarn and fiber, but quickly get tired of staying indoors, especially when the weather is glorious? Do you love to travel and explore, but miss your crafting projects if you're away from home for long? On your next vacation, why not have it all? You can work on your projects and learn new fiber art skills, while exploring the Queyras, a rustic corner of the French Alps with a unique and textile-rich history. The remote villages nestling high among these wild and rugged mountains were, until recent times, relatively poor and isolated for much of the year. However they have long been rich in textile and handcraft traditions, which helped them survive economically in this harsh environment. Today these traditions are being preserved and even updated by modern craftsmen and women. Lace-makers offer classes to pass along their craft, using the same tools their ancestors did. Wood-carvers too teach their skills, featuring designs and motifs native to the area. Even the ancient practice of shepherding is undergoing a renaissance, thanks to a young generation of herdsmen and women who bring a new outlook and energy to their profession. Woolen mills from early in the last century, having slept through a generation or two of dormancy, now find new life under the management of innovative entrepreneurs, passionate about keeping their vintage machines living and working. Not merely for the sake of the machines themselves, but also producing fabrics and designs adapted to modern tastes. These operations in turn sustain the local shepherds who might otherwise be forced to throw their perfectly good wool into the landfill for lack of a viable market! Our trip will combine skills workshops with light hiking and sight-seeing in a region of southeastern France where the mountains of the Maritime Alps form the border with Italy. Walled cities and fortresses dating from the middle ages, high mountain meadows strewn with flowers and flowing with clear cold streams, rugged mountain cottages and lodges provide plenty to explore and discover. Between outings, we will settle in at the active woolen mill in the village of Saint Chaffrey, to learn or refine such skills as felting, plant-based and natural dyeing, and spindle spinning, from local experts. We will also learn a great deal about the distinct breeds of sheep native to the countries and regions of Europe, and the differing properties of the wools they produce. We will have the chance to clean, card and spin a fleece together ourselves, thus having a hands-on experience of every stage of wool preparation from fleece to yarn. And if we're not too sleepy at the end of a long and active day, we may even make some progress on that knitting or crochet project we brought with us.
Booking your trip We offer this trip as either an open trip, on which you can sign up by yourself and join a group, or, as a private program for just you and your friends/family. The booking process as well as the fee structure is different depending on whether you would like an open or private trip. For booking on an open trip click though to this page on booking an open trip. Guiding fees for the open trip can be found here. Group size and composition Kathy will be leading this trip for 2012, and can take a maximum of 5 wanderers. |
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| Saint Véran in the Queyras Regional Natural Park, the highest year-round inhabited village in France. | |
Who is this trip for? |
Although it is assumed that this kind of trip will appeal most to people who already have a fiber based hobby or activity such as knitting, crochet, weaving or spinning, this is certainly not required! You can be an absolute beginner at all of this, and will benefit from both the workshops and from the company, example and inspiration of the more experienced craftswomen in the group. All you really need to enjoy this trip is a love of exploration and discovery. Participants need not be physically fit, though you should be able to walk at a normal comfortable pace on trails or rough dirt roads at an easy uphill grade, for an hour or two. Aside from this, in order to enjoy a trip like this you should have a healthy sense of adventure, flexibility and an open mind! Travel always brings the unexpected. Come prepared to enjoy surprises, and the spontaneous opportunities they bring. If you have any questions about the appropriateness of this trip for you, please contact us. |
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| The walls of Briançon and outer ring of houses. | |
| Woolly Wanderings Itinerary |
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| Day 1 | Rendezvous in Grenoble, drive to Saint Chaffrey and check into our hotel. We will meet up in Grenoble in the early afternoon, and drive by van to our rustic hotel in Saint Chaffrey, just steps away from the “Filature” (woolen mill) of Chantemerle. We will check in to our hotel, and perhaps have a tour of the woolen mill if time permits. |
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| Day 2 |
"Wools of Europe" seminar with Marie-Thérèse Chaupin in the morning (1/2 day), explore Briançon in the afternoon and evening. After breakfast in our hotel, we will head over to the woolen mill to join Marie-Thérèse Chaupin, coordinator of ATELIER Laines d'Europe (Wools of Europe), the European Association for Textile Study, Liaison, Innovation & Research. She will share her vast knowledge of the distinct European breeds of sheep found throughout the continent. By means of photos and samples, we’ll come to see and understand the properties that make them different from each other, and suited to different end products and uses. This gives us deeper insight into the variety of fibers and fabrics we see in yarns, in shops and in garments every day. After lunch, we will take time to explore the beautiful walled city of Briançon. We will dine together in Briançon, and return to Saint Chaffrey for the night. |
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| Day 3 | Fleece cleaning (1/2 day), then felting workshop (1/2 day) with Magali Bontoux. On this morning, we will get our hands on a fleece selected by Marie-Thérèse for us to clean, prepare, and eventually spin. We start by cleaning the fleece together. Leaving it to dry, we break for lunch, then spend the afternoon learning about felting, with Magali Bontoux, a local felt maker and natural dyer. |
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| Day 4 | Dyeing workshop (full day) with Magali. This entire day will be devoted to a plant-based and natural dyeing workshop with Magali. Starting with an introduction to the more famous dye-plants such as madder (red), reseda (yellow) and woad (blue), as well as other local and exotic plants, we will move on to the practical application of various dyeing techniques currently being revived by modern practitioners; particularly fermentation dyeing, and techniques particular to indigo and cochineal-based colors. |
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| Day 5 | Carding/combing (1/2 day) with Marie-Thérèse in the morning, then move to Saint-Véran, explore the village and start spinning with hand-crafted spindles. The fleece we washed together on our first morning should be dry and fluffy by now. We'll begin our day by carding and combing it, under the instruction of Marie-Thérèse. After lunch we'll say good-bye to Marie-Thérèse and Magali, and drive up into the mountains to the rustic and beautifully preserved village of Saint Véran. After checking into our hotel there, we will have plenty of time to explore this village, it's narrow streets and flower-festooned cottages, its museum depicting the traditional life of the villagers of another era. We'll see artifacts of their hand-crafting industry—in woodcarving and lace-making particularly—and get a feeling for how they made profitable use of long winter evenings and cold days, by necessity spent indoors. In the evening we can begin to spin our own hand-prepared fleece on hand spindles locally carved just for us, and decorated with typical motifs peculiar to this area. |
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| Day 6 | We've been working hard on our creative pursuits, now is our time to get out and enjoy the fresh air of the great outdoors for one full day. We'll hike up to the high mountain hut of La Blanche, and get a taste of the life of the “montagnard” (mountaineer type folk). Alpine mountain huts are designed and built to cater to the hordes of trekkers, climbers, and other outdoor enthusiasts who want to make a real expedition into the hills, but without carrying a heavy backpack. Comfortable bunks with bedding, and a full service kitchen and cooking staff allow hikers to link multiple day outings with a light daypack, and meet interesting fellow travelers along the way. After lunch or a snack at the hut, we'll return to Saint Véran for the night. We may have energy and time to work on our spinning or some other project in the evening. |
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| Day 7 | Visit the Costume Museum in Abriès, afternoon hike, last night together in Briançon. After breakfast we will check out of our hotel and drive deeper into the mountains, to the town of Abriès. Here we'll visit the Costume Museum, where we'll be able to appreciate fully the expertise and prolific output of the lace-makers of this area, busy and talented women whose lace was highly prized and traded far and wide. The income from this trade greatly enhanced what would otherwise have been quite a seasonal and rather meager family income! We should have time to enjoy a last afternoon of walking and enjoying the expansive views, before driving back to Briançon for our last night together. |
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| Day 8 | After breakfast we will pack up our van and return to Grenoble, where we'll say our good-byes and begin our journey home, richer with new friends, tools and knowledge to show for our week's holiday! | ||||
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| A house in Saint Véran. | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston All images, layout and text ©2011 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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