| Pisco - Huascarán Expedition |
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We have decided not to offer trips to Huascarán. In recent years we have grown increasingly uneasy with the objective hazards posed by unpredictable icefall. In the summer of 2002, while we were in the Ishinca area, there were two more accidents, resulting in numerous deaths. The cause was icefall exactly in the area of concern, both in the same spot.
If you are planning your own trip, we offer the following advice.
While all mountaineering includes risk, and is an integral part of the activity, the normal route on Huascarán presents an unusually high level of icefall hazard. This hazard occurs mostly between Camp I on the glacier and High Camp at the Garganta. The hazard is unavoidable and, because it is based on serac fall resulting from glacial movement, it can occur at any time, regardless of temperature or time of day.
Your best strategy for reducing this hazard is to travel through this section of the route quickly. You can help to achieve this by using small rope teams (climb Huascarán at a maximum ratio of 2:1 with a maximum group size of 4 climbers with 2 guides) and use porters to help with your loads.
In the last 3 years, the hazard appeared especially high, more significant than we have seen in past years. Though this is not necessarily an indication of the level of future hazards, we are concerned about the possibility of increasing hazard on this route.
This is our shortest itinerary which includes Peru's highest summit, Huascarán. Huascarán is an important summit, at 22,199 feet it is one of the highest in the Andes. Unlike many of the higher Andean peaks in Argentina or Chile, Huascarán presents a more interesting and normally more challenging ascent. It is a highly glaciated peak with no easy route to its summit. We begin with an ascent of Pisco Oeste, an 18,867 foot high summit just to the north of Huascarán. This acclimatization ascent gives us a chance to begin our acclimatization and to review climbing skills needed on Huascarán. Climbers for this combined program need to be in excellent physical condition, and have significant experience climbing in crampons. Previous high altitude experience is highly recommended, but not required. |
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| Pisco & Huascarán Combined Expedition Itinerary |
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| Day 0 |
Fly to Lima. Most Climbers take a late night flight out of Miami, arriving in Lima very early in the morning the next day. |
| Day 1 |
Arrive early AM in Lima. Rendezvous at the airport. Because most flights arrive very early we normally go to a nearby hotel to rest for a few hours before continuing our trip to Huaraz. We'll taxi to the bus station, and then continue on to Huaraz via bus. The trip to Huaraz takes most of the day. We usually arrive just in time to see the setting sun on the peaks at the southern end of the Blanca. On arrival we check into our hotel, the Hostal Andino, generally agreed to be the finest hotel in Huaraz. (Hostal Andino, Pedro Cochachin #357, phone 721-662, fax 722-830) |
| Day 2 |
Laguna Churup day hike. In order to begin our acclimatization and to give ourselves a bit of a rest from traveling we take a short day hike to Laguna Churup. This azure colored glacial fed lake nestled under 18,017 foot Nevado Churup, is not far from Huaraz. At about 14,600' in elevation, Laguna Churup is an excellent destination to help us begin the process of adapting our bodies to the demands of high altitude climbing. Return to Hostal Andino for the night. |
| Day 3 | Leaving Huaraz we drive north to the small town of Yungay at the foot of the Quebrada (canyon) Llanganuco. Entering the Quebrada we continue to drive east into the mountains to the wide and pastoral valley between Huascarán on the south and Huandoy on the north. We camp near the trailhead at Cebolla Pampa. This is an easy day, which we use to achieve further acclimatization. |
| Day 4 |
On the morning of our fourth day we meet our arrieros (mule handlers), and, after loading our gear on burros, we set out carrying only light day packs to make the short trek to Pisco Base Camp at about 15,750'. There is a very new and comfortable European style climbers hut here. With larger groups we normally establish a Base Camp near the hut. With smaller groups we will take advantage of the good food and easy accommodation the hut offers. |
| Day 5 |
Carrying overnight gear we cross the glacier at the foot of Pisco's steep South Face and make our high camp in preparation for tomorrow's climb. There are several places to place this camp, the exact location being determined by conditions and the state of our acclimatization. |
| Day 6 |
Our summit climb of Pisco follows the occasionally narrow West Ridge. Snow and a little ice lead directly to the top. Pisco is well known for its incredible views. This is largely because of the proximity of the neighboring peaks Huandoy and Chacraraju. We return to Base Camp. |
| Day 7 |
From Base Camp we make the quick hike out to our van and continue to Huaraz. We return to the Hostal Andino for a hot shower and good meal. |
| Day 8 | Rest day in Huaraz. |
| Day 9 |
Leaving Huaraz very early on day 8 we drive to the town of Musho, the jumping off point for Huascarán. Here, we load our gear on burros we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp at an elevation of 14,000'. The walk to Base Camp normally takes about 4 hours. |
| Day 10 |
As we climb above Base Camp the route becomes more difficult, taking a complex path up and around huge glacially polished granite slabs. Our next camp, Moraine Camp, is located just below the glacier on a bench among the slabs. |
| Day 11 |
The next day we arrive at the edge of the ice itself. An additional 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to camp, on the glacier at 17,200'. We will use porters to carry much of the group gear to this camp. |
| Day 12 |
On our 11th day we move up to High Camp, located in La Garganta (The Throat), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. As we climb through the increasingly broken glacier, we encounter short section of technical climbing including ice up to about 60 degrees. Again, we will have the aid of porters to carry some of our group gear. |
| Day 13 |
Summit day! Because of our previous acclimatization on Pisco, we will have little difficulty adjusting to the elevation of high camp. It is probable that we will feel strong and ready to climb on this first possible summit day. |
| Day 14 |
Reserve summit day, in case of bad weather. This day can also be used for an ascent of the slightly lower north peak. |
| Day 15 |
Descend to Base Camp. About 5 to 6 hours down. |
| Day 16 |
Return to Huaraz. Lodging at the Hostal Andino. |
| Day 17 |
We return to Lima via bus, departing Huaraz in the mid morning. Usually we have time to enjoy a good final meal together and have plenty of time to get to the airport for the late evening departures for the States. |
| Day 18 |
Flights leaving Lima near midnight get into Miami at about 5 in the morning, giving everyone plenty of time to make connections for their flights home. |
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| Artesonraju and Alpamayo | |
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Pisco & Huascarán Expedition Fees |
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| 3 or 4 climbers with 2 guides |
not currently offered |
| Program Cost Inclusions
Program Cost Exclusions
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Kathy
Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members |
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